07 September 2009

best fish curry from my childhood

My Aapa ji (grandmother from my mother’s side) was the best cook and I’ve never tasted fish (nor anything else) the way she made it. ‘Aapa’ is a form of address for elder sister. Not sure how this title is appropriate for one’s grandmother, but Aapa ji she was to us. She passed away when I was very young, but I can still recall the sweet scent of henna she used to dye her palms and of the paan http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paan she enjoyed on lazy afternoons. My grandparents lived in the Lahore Cantonment, where sometimes the odd street vendor would hawk his wares from atop his squeaky bicycle; Cook would be sent scurrying after him, big bowl and a couple of crisp hundred rupee notes in hand. His return was greeted by a loud cacophony from the numerous pet cats, in anticipation of their favourite fish parts. She would have preferred sweet water fish from the river Ravi and cooked it in an earthen vessel using a wooden spoon but I am told salmon or any fish that can withstand a bit of cooking and does not flake too easily will do for this recipe as well.

Fish ½ kg; onion 1 Ginger paste 1 tbsp

Garlic paste 1 tbsp Cumin seeds ½ tsp

Coriander seeds ¼ tsp Yogurt ½ cup

Spinach 1 cup, Chopped Green chilies 3-4

Ajwain (caraway/carom seed) 1 pinch Salt to taste

Fresh coriander for garnish Oil for frying

Heat oil in a pot. Add finely sliced onion and fry till translucent. Add garlic paste, ginger paste and continue frying. Add cumin, coriander, and ajwain, and fry till aroma evolves. Add spinach, and fry, adding a splash of water now and then, to keep the masala sticking to the bottom. Keep frying until the spinach reduces and oil separates. Now turn the heat to a simmer and add the yogurt. When the yogurt begins to boil, gently arrange fish pieces in the pot, and shake slightly so that the yogurt mixture covers the fish. Add the whole green chilies, cover the pot and leave to simmer. When the gravy is thickened and fish is tender, remove from heat. Add salt at the end. Garnish with fresh coriander. Serve with plain boiled rice and dal, or naan.

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